Record Power BS250 Bandsaw (Better RipFence)
A new rip fence which can be clamped squarely to the table will help produce truly parallel veneers and boards. Even if used as directed in the manual, the existing fence provided by RecordPower can tilt one or two degrees off square as there is no downward clamping pressure. This veneered MDF fence uses simple screw clamps to the table.
Start by removing the fence rail and add a M6 screw and female
clamp nut to the hole at the end of the table to provide rigidity -
this was the original design before the new fence rail was added.
Materials are
formica laminated MDF - offcut from kitchen supplier. Also brass
hinges for the clamps, and two clamp screws from an old pre-war
trouser press. These are always a good source of clamps and
fittings, and sometimes seasoned wood. Number 10 biscuits hold it
together. Fence height and base width are both 90mm.
The parts are
biscuited and glued. This is the only chance to get the fence
square while the glue dries. The buttress webs hold the structure
very rigidly square, but keep checking for square whilst clamping
up. If using plain MDF for the base piece, there is a chance to
square up the working faces by planing or joi
The blocks,
hinges and screws are arranged as shown, identical each end. The
gap between the blocks is slightly longer than the length of the
table. The near end block should be square to the base and acts as
a subfence to keep the fence square across the table. Choose block
thickness so that the clamp pieces are horizontal. A piece of
leather glued to each adds grip under the table. In place of the
trouser-press screw you can use a T-nut, and a length of threaded
studding Loctited into a female clamp nut
The Finished Rip
fence. The width of the clamp blocks must allow the fence to be
lifted off the table when at the extreme left position.
For ripping boards to width, I also use a shortened straightedge clamp guide from Axminster Tool Co., unfortunately no longer available (shown).
A simple batten clamped to the table, with two M6 dowel nuts and two long M6 screws and wingnuts gives a demountable fine adjustment (1 turn = 1mm)
With some good adjustment and this fence, the BS250 is capable of cutting full depth (120mm) veneer of 2 mm.

Saw on Wheels!


The saw has wheels, two of which run in a track on the bench top. The saw is rolled to one end of the bench when not in use. The clamp at the back holds steady it for use.
An old deadstop from a cheap mitre saw, with one rod glued into a hole in the end of the fence, gives a handy deadstop for cutting tenon cheeks.
Crosscutting Sled. This has a steel strip running in the
mitre slot, screwed to the underside of the sled. The sled is made
slightly too wide, and sawn to width by the bandsaw itself. The
cross piece is then screwed and glued square to the cut edge.