Reducing backlash in Record no.6

Reducing backlash in pressed steel depth adjuster when fitting thicker blade. The backlash was already a full turn, but when adding the thicker blade it increased to almost two turns of the adjuster wheel. This is due to the modern two-piece pressed steel Y-lever's nose being tapered, (well actually shaped like a gear tooth) and the new blade being thicker, thereby moving the chipbreaker slot further away from the lever. I can only recommend this for the modern pressed steel levers.

STEP 1.
Drive out the 1/8 " pin holding the Y-Lever using a suitable 3mm drift, such as an old jewellers' screwdriver with a ground-off end. If it does not budge one way, try from the other end. It may be tapered or rivetted over. It may even be a roll-pin in recent Record or Stanley.

IF THE PIN DOES NOT MOVE EASILY, ABORT THE REPAIR OR YOU COULD CRACK THE FROG.

Clean up the pin and add a chamfer to aid refitting. If it was a roll pin, add a slight countersink to the hole to align when refitting.

STEP 2.
Solder loves clean shiny metal. Gently file off enough metal to remove any plating or rust where the shim will be soldered - i.e. round the end and flanks of the "tooth". Don't overdo it!

STEP 3.
Clean up with abrasive a suitable piece of shim stock - in this case 0.4mm brass sheet. For good soldering it should be shiny and slightly rough. Cut with tinsnips or even old scissors. If I had any steel shim I would probably have used it instead.

STEP 4.
Cut and shape a piece about 50% wider than the lever using needle nose pliers. It should fit closely on the flanks, but the nose can be slightly rounded and should fill with solder.

STEP 5.
Place the lever in a vice with hardwood jaws to insulate from the vice, apply plumbers acid paste flux, or other suitable flux, to the join area, and fit the brass "crown" in place. Clear the bench and have your fire extinguisher ready!

STEP 6.
I used SILVER SOLDER, which is harder than electricians solder, but softer than braze, and melts well below red-heat. Heat the lever gently with a butane torch. The flux will bubble first. Keep touching the silver solder to the lever until it starts to run. Back off the flame. Apply to both sides of the lever.