Fettling an old Block Plane (page 1)

This is a Record no. 9 1/2 block plane of approx 1980. It was made in Sheffield is almost certainly of better build quality than those available in 2006. It cost me £11 in a local flea market
Before buying it is essential to check it for:-
- No cracks in the body
- Blade is marked with the manufacturers name (or better!)
- Screws not missing, damaged or poor replacements
- Lever cap lever actually clamps the blade
- All parts are there including fine adjuster, lever cap, adjustable mouth sole.

Take the adjustable mouth out by removing the knurled screw.


Ensure that the sliding faces of the adjustable mouth are free from rusty deposits. Scrape the parts of the plane that contact the adjustable mouth with a medium screwdriver. This should remove lumps without damaging the sliding faces. Pitting is not a problem but lumps of rust are a problem.


Scrape the corresponding faces of the adjustable mouth part. The bit with blue paint on does not contact the plane sole so can be left untouched.


Reassemble the mouth. Fit the blade but ensure it is retracted below the level of the plane's sole. Tape some 120 grit sandpaper onto a good thick mirror or plate glass. Rub the plane along the sandpaper a few times and inspect the sole. Wear a mask unless you like the taste of rust in your sinuses. The fine powdered cast iron will probably do no harm but it just tastes like you have a nose-bleed!


It will almost certainly have bright patches where the sole is proud of the rest. This will give you an idea of how much rubbing will be required.


Check the flatness with a good straight-edge. The sole does not have to be completely flat, and a small depression between the mouth and the rear is OK. If you have feeler gauges try to get a gap of no more than 1.5 thou (.025mm) But the sole in front of the blade must be bright and flat right to the mouth. If you want to make 1 thou shavings the sole must be true and flat to better than a thou at the mouth.