Fix trigger spring and pinion holders Diana/Original 6, 6G, 6M air pistol p.3

OK this was a bodge, but hey, it worked.

The pinion caps with the stripped threads were fixed with Slow cure Araldite and held in a vice for 12 hours to set.

Then holes 1.5mm diameter were drilled as deep as possible through the housing into the centre of the threaded part (done by eye). One hole at top and bottom of each pinion housing.

Take care not to break the drill, though this was all mild steel.

I then tapped an M2 metric threads VERY carefully.

Tapping a thread requires the tap to be rotated half a turn clockwise, then a quarter turn anticlockwise to break off the metal swarf.


With M2 this is a really fingertip process. If you break a tap in here you can forget getting the broken piece out, so you need sensitive engineers fingers to do this!. You will have to feel very carefully for when you reach the bottom of the hole.

Use a taper tap first then the plug tap.

There is no need to drill clearance holes in the housing - that can be done later if the pinions ever have to be removed in the future.



Job Done. M2 screws were from Maplins computer shop and apparently are used to fix components in desktop PCs.

The grip holder needed a bit of filing to clear the screw heads on the lower screws.


Original/Diana 6, 6G, 6M Trigger Adjustment



Important: Always test the trigger by firing the loaded pistol; never fire the pistol "dry" or you may damage the new seal. This means you need to have a safe backstop on the bench, such as a shoe box full of old socks or an empty baked bean tin with an inch of plasticene or soft putty in the bottom.

The trigger adjustment is simple and limited.

The first screw is a lock screw for the compound adjusting screw, so loosen it before adjusting the trigger and tighten it afterwards.

The actual break point of the trigger cannot be adjusted; it is controlled by the length of the sear faces. Inless you have a Dremel to remove material and a welder to stick it back on, leave i!.

The compound screw is all there is to adjust.
The outer screw affects the position of the second stage.
Too far in and there is single stage, heavy, or even locked.
Too far out and single stage, light (too light for the 500g minimum.

The trick is to take off the frame so you can see under the compound screw and wind in the outer screw until there is a small gap between the trigger and the ball bearing in the centre of the compound screw. That gap gives the first stage travel.

The inner screw increases the tension of the spring behind the ball bearing. Screw it in to increase trigger weight, and also the weight differential between first and second stages. I prefer to start it in to max depth then back off a turn.

That will give you the max weight differential (or feel) between first and second stages.

Now screw out the outer screw a bit at a time until the movement after engaging the second stage before release of trigger is at a minimum (and therefore first stage movement is maximum)

If you can't get a good balance, only then consider getting out the Dremel!!